We spent a very entertaining long weekend in Pensacola, Florida and Mobile, Alabama. We went with friends, one of whom is retired from the Navy, and were able to stay in the Navy Lodge on the Pensacola Naval Air Station. Our rooms overlooked the beach and Pensacola Bay.
Unfortunately the weather was rainy and foggy most of the time. The fog made an interesting perspective on the views. This is the Pensacola Light as seen from the balcony at the Navy Lodge.
Our sightseeing consisted of three activities: air museum, WWII ships and forts. Our first day we spent at the Naval Aviation Museum right on base. The museum tracks the history of naval aviation from the earliest days until the present. This base is home to the Navy's air demonstration team, the Blue Angels. One gallery has a formation of Blue Angel planes suspended from the ceiling. There was also a very moving exhibit on POWs from the Vietnam War.
The WWII ships were in Mobile, Alabama which is less than an hour from Pensacola. Battleship Park is the home of the retired battleship USS Alabama and the submarine USS Drum which was one of the few US submarines to make it from the start of the war through the end of the war. The majority of each ship was open for touring but it's a lot of climbing and stepping over things to see it all. We went from the conning tower of the battleship to the conning tower of the submarine. You could even go inside the gun turrets of the battleship. They also have a small museum with aircraft and land vehicles.
The forts were in the Pensacola area. The Pensacola Naval Air Station sits at the opening to Pensacola Bay across the water from two barrier islands. In the early 1800's the US built a triangle of massive brick forts to protect the entrance to the bay which had an important naval ship building yard.
Two of the forts remain, Fort Barrancas on the Naval Air Station and Fort Pickens on the end of Pensacola Beach. Fort Barrancas was built around an earlier Spanish fort. The only actual fighting the forts saw was during the Civil War when the Union held Fort Barrancas and the Confederates held Fort Pickens. The battles were stalemates meaning neither side controlled Pensacola harbor during the war. After the war, rifles and heavy guns replaced cannons and made the brick forts obsolete. Fort Pickens continued to be used and was upgraded during the Spanish American war in the late 1800's and again during WWII for coastal defense. German submarines did stalk our shipping in the Caribbean and off the Atlantic coast but ships provided a better defense than the forts.
The road out to Fort Pickens follows a narrow barrier island with beaches on either side. The surf was pretty high that day and early that morning had gone over the roadway. They told us it was safe to drive through so we went ahead.
The sand is very white. A lot of people were out at the beach that day even though it was very windy and chilly. They wanted to see the white beaches before any oil washed ashore from the oil rig that exploded last week.
One of the surprises for me was the excellent eating we had all weekend. We ate at McGuire's Irish Pub our first night and liked it so much we went back for more on our last night. The building and decor are well worth the trip itself but the food was fantastic! Specialty of the house is a bowl of Senate Bean Soup for 18 cents. Tradition is to write a note on a dollar bill and staple it to the wall (the wait staff carry pens and staplers for the purpose). The ceilings are dripping with dollar bills and they brag that they have well over half a million and still counting (they have to count the money once a year for tax purposes).
The next night we ate at the Oar House in a pouring rain. This place is a little hard to find since it's tucked past a residential area amoungst marine warehouses and docks. This is a place that relies on open air and outside dining so the rain moved the party indoors making for an ear-splitting din. The seafood was worth it and I would love to go back in balmier weather. Our other great dining experience in Pensacola was Peg Leg Pete's on the barrier island of Pensacola Beach. This was a shack with walls lined with licenese plates from every state and several foreign countries. We chowed down on oysters, crabs and shrimp - yum, yum! Our one day in Mobile we went looking for a restaurant my husband remembered from a trip he made there with his father years ago. We found the building but it is now a different restuarant. It seems Hurricane Katrina did a number on this area back in 2005; most of the businesses had closed up and a lot of buildings were still damaged and boarded up. The restaurant that moved into this building had itself left their original building because of the damage from Katrina. It was still the Original Oyster House though. They serve oysters in over a dozen different ways and every way we had them was delicious.